Filament 3D printer

🛸 Location: Electronics workshop

The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.

The mainboard is Geetech GT2560. File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf

The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.

The currently used plastic is PLA.

Usage

Prepare your model for printing

1. Get a .stl file
2. Install slicing software (e.g. Cura)
3. Load the .stl file into the slicing software
4. Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.

Prepare for printing

1. Plug in the power cable
2. Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)
3. Plug in USB cable
4. Start the monitoring software

If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect.

If the printer is not detected on USB, power cycle it.

Clean the bed

A clean bed makes the print stick better.

1. Make sure the bed is cold
2. Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print
3. Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone's fingers

Level the bed

Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.

1. Click the “home” button
2. Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.
3. Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).
4. Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.
5. Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.
6. Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.
7. Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.
8. When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.

Adjust the distance sensor

If everything works, don't mess with it!

But if the first layer didn't come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder's side. They are holding the distance sensor.

If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.

If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.

Print

1. Close all instances of printing or monitoring software
2. Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)
3. Load .gcode file
4. Start printing

The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.

Alternative software workflow

For when Cura refuses to work, there's an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: Slic3r and pronterface. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.

A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).

1. Load the STL file with Slic3r
2. Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code
3. Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000
4. Load the G-code file
5. Start the print

Problems

First layer didn't come out

Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.

Very little plastic came out!

The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there's a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).

The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There's a kind of a seal there.

1. Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.
2. Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.
3. Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.
4. Cut off the gnarly end.
5. Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.
6. Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.

Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.

First layer smeared on the build plate

If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.

A big blob on the nozzle and no object present

The build plate was not clean and the filament didn't stick to it. Clean the build plate.

The object is moving around on the nozzle!

The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it's warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.

The object is warped!

Disconnect the main fan (it's not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.

I want to print ABS

Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.