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	<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/api.php?action=feedcontributions&amp;feedformat=atom&amp;user=Dorota</id>
	<title>Kanthaus wiki - User contributions [en]</title>
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	<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/Special:Contributions/Dorota"/>
	<updated>2026-04-20T08:40:54Z</updated>
	<subtitle>User contributions</subtitle>
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	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2220</id>
		<title>Electronics workshop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2220"/>
		<updated>2026-04-14T05:21:53Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Stuff */ inventory&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The place to fiddle with PCBs and soldering irons. 🔌&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Workshop with a lot of electronic stuff and some supporting tools, materials, and equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Space code: K22-0-5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Purposes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* store electronic components&lt;br /&gt;
* store and use tools&lt;br /&gt;
* repair electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
* manufacture electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Learning==&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to learn about electronics, this is the best place. Contact the people who are written in on the sheet near the door.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Filament 3D printer|Filament 3d printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Resin 3D printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*components&lt;br /&gt;
*SMD soldering plate&lt;br /&gt;
*soldering irons&lt;br /&gt;
*hot air station&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Changes to equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
When you notice a change in the equipment:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* it doesn&#039;t work&lt;br /&gt;
* it is fixed&lt;br /&gt;
* you tried but it&#039;s still not fixed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
then PLEASE make a note in the workshop notebook:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* date&lt;br /&gt;
* your name&lt;br /&gt;
* what it looked like before&lt;br /&gt;
* what you did (describe replaced and new components)&lt;br /&gt;
* what it looks like now&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notebook is on the desk.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Stuff==&lt;br /&gt;
All the chargers and cables you can dream of. What is electrical and doesn&#039;t fit in other rooms comes here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Experimental inventory ===&lt;br /&gt;
On the windowsill is an (incomplete) inventory folder. It describes where components are.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you have trouble finding a component, check the inventory.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you use a component that&#039;s not in, write it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you add a new component, write it in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Trash==&lt;br /&gt;
Electrical trash goes under the desk. There it can be scavenged for components or used as sacrificial training pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When too much gathers (aiming at 1 box), it&#039;s thrown outside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repairs==&lt;br /&gt;
Things to repair should be placed on the desk. Describe the problem. Paper and pens are on the windowsill.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Rooms]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Workshops]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2219</id>
		<title>Electronics workshop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2219"/>
		<updated>2026-04-14T05:18:46Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Equipment */ Start bookkeeping&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The place to fiddle with PCBs and soldering irons. 🔌&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Workshop with a lot of electronic stuff and some supporting tools, materials, and equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Space code: K22-0-5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Purposes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* store electronic components&lt;br /&gt;
* store and use tools&lt;br /&gt;
* repair electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
* manufacture electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Learning==&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to learn about electronics, this is the best place. Contact the people who are written in on the sheet near the door.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Filament 3D printer|Filament 3d printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Resin 3D printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*components&lt;br /&gt;
*SMD soldering plate&lt;br /&gt;
*soldering irons&lt;br /&gt;
*hot air station&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Changes to equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
When you notice a change in the equipment:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* it doesn&#039;t work&lt;br /&gt;
* it is fixed&lt;br /&gt;
* you tried but it&#039;s still not fixed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
then PLEASE make a note in the workshop notebook:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* date&lt;br /&gt;
* your name&lt;br /&gt;
* what it looked like before&lt;br /&gt;
* what you did (describe replaced and new components)&lt;br /&gt;
* what it looks like now&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Notebook is on the desk.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Stuff==&lt;br /&gt;
All the chargers and cables you can dream of. What is electrical and doesn&#039;t fit in other rooms comes here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Trash==&lt;br /&gt;
Electrical trash goes under the desk. There it can be scavenged for components or used as sacrificial training pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When too much gathers (aiming at 1 box), it&#039;s thrown outside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repairs==&lt;br /&gt;
Things to repair should be placed on the desk. Describe the problem. Paper and pens are on the windowsill.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Rooms]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Workshops]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2218</id>
		<title>Electronics workshop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2218"/>
		<updated>2026-04-14T05:15:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Trash */ Desired size of trash pile&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The place to fiddle with PCBs and soldering irons. 🔌&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Workshop with a lot of electronic stuff and some supporting tools, materials, and equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Space code: K22-0-5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Purposes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* store electronic components&lt;br /&gt;
* store and use tools&lt;br /&gt;
* repair electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
* manufacture electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Learning==&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to learn about electronics, this is the best place. Contact the people who are written in on the sheet near the door.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Filament 3D printer|Filament 3d printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Resin 3D printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*components&lt;br /&gt;
*SMD soldering plate&lt;br /&gt;
*soldering irons&lt;br /&gt;
*hot air station&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Stuff==&lt;br /&gt;
All the chargers and cables you can dream of. What is electrical and doesn&#039;t fit in other rooms comes here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Trash==&lt;br /&gt;
Electrical trash goes under the desk. There it can be scavenged for components or used as sacrificial training pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When too much gathers (aiming at 1 box), it&#039;s thrown outside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repairs==&lt;br /&gt;
Things to repair should be placed on the desk. Describe the problem. Paper and pens are on the windowsill.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Rooms]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Workshops]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2217</id>
		<title>Electronics workshop</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Electronics_workshop&amp;diff=2217"/>
		<updated>2026-04-14T05:14:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Purposes */ expand with repair&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The place to fiddle with PCBs and soldering irons. 🔌&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Workshop with a lot of electronic stuff and some supporting tools, materials, and equipment.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Space code: K22-0-5&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Purposes ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* store electronic components&lt;br /&gt;
* store and use tools&lt;br /&gt;
* repair electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
* manufacture electronic devices&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Learning==&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to learn about electronics, this is the best place. Contact the people who are written in on the sheet near the door.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Equipment==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Filament 3D printer|Filament 3d printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*[[Resin 3D printer]]&lt;br /&gt;
*components&lt;br /&gt;
*SMD soldering plate&lt;br /&gt;
*soldering irons&lt;br /&gt;
*hot air station&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Stuff==&lt;br /&gt;
All the chargers and cables you can dream of. What is electrical and doesn&#039;t fit in other rooms comes here.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Trash==&lt;br /&gt;
Electrical trash goes under the desk. There it can be scavenged for components or used as sacrificial training pieces.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When too much gathers, it&#039;s thrown outside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==Repairs==&lt;br /&gt;
Things to repair should be placed on the desk. Describe the problem. Paper and pens are on the windowsill.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Rooms]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Workshops]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2216</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2216"/>
		<updated>2026-04-14T05:11:15Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* I want to print ABS */ bed is heating again&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The mainboard is Geetech GT2560. [[File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf|thumb|User manual of the mainboard. Helpful for knowing where to connect cables.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer is not detected on USB, power cycle it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Try it and report results here.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2209</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2209"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:43:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Prepare for printing */ USB sometimes doesn&amp;#039;t come up, so warn to reduce confusion.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The mainboard is Geetech GT2560. [[File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf|thumb|User manual of the mainboard. Helpful for knowing where to connect cables.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If the printer is not detected on USB, power cycle it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2208</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2208"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:32:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Move link to manual.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The mainboard is Geetech GT2560. [[File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf|thumb|User manual of the mainboard. Helpful for knowing where to connect cables.]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2207</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2207"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:31:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Added user manual for mainboard.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
[[File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf|thumb|User manual of the mainboard. Hlpful for knowing where to connect cables.]]&lt;br /&gt;
The mainboard is Geetech GT2560.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=File:Users_Manual_of_GT2560.pdf&amp;diff=2206</id>
		<title>File:Users Manual of GT2560.pdf</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=File:Users_Manual_of_GT2560.pdf&amp;diff=2206"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:30:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Filament printer&#039;s mainboard user manual. Contains diagrams and connector information.&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2205</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2205"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:28:00Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Adjust the distance sensor */ freakig mediawiki ate my edt&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is filament coming out of the nozzle, the extruder is too high above the plate. Pull the distance sensor up.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If there is no filament, the nozzle is scraping the bed and blocking the hole. Push the distance sensor down.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2204</id>
		<title>Filament 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Filament_3D_printer&amp;diff=2204"/>
		<updated>2026-03-10T06:25:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Troubleshooting procedures learned yesterday while unclogging.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Electronics workshop]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printer model is Prusa i3, despite what the labels say.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The extruder nozzle is 0.5mm in size.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The currently used plastic is PLA.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare your model for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Get a .stl file&lt;br /&gt;
# Install slicing software (e.g. [https://ultimaker.com/software/ultimaker-cura/ Cura])&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the .stl file into the slicing software&lt;br /&gt;
# Slice! (Enter/verify settings for the printer when prompted.) You’ll get a .gcode file.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Prepare for printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in the power cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Install monitoring software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Plug in USB cable&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# If the printer is not detected, choose the serial port (/dev/ttyUSB*) and model and connect&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
A clean bed makes the print stick better.&lt;br /&gt;
# Make sure the bed is cold&lt;br /&gt;
# Use your fingernails to scrape off remains of the previous print&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the bed with a soapy cloth to remove any grease from everyone&#039;s fingers&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Level the bed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Moving the bed using the built in controls is possible but time-consuming. Here’s instructions for the laptop.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Click the “home” button&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder by 2cm using the software controls.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder near one of the corners closer to you (doesn’t have to be very close).&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder step by step without hitting the bed. The green LED will light when the extruder is close to the bed. Pay attention to that moment.&lt;br /&gt;
# Lower the extruder until it touches the bed. If it doesn’t, raise it until the LED goes dark, and then turn the screw under the corner on the bed so that the LED shines. Raise the bed by 1-2mm. Careful - if the bed is very uneven, the screw will turn without effect. Then just continue.&lt;br /&gt;
# Raise the extruder to the point where the LED goes dark. Then lower it a little so it’s lit. Press on the bed - the LED should go dark again.&lt;br /&gt;
# Move the extruder sideways to the next corner, by small steps. When the LED goes dark, adjust the screw in the target corner. Set it so that pressing on the bed turns off the LED.&lt;br /&gt;
# When the corner is reached, move to the next corner. Do about 2 laps.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Adjust the distance sensor ====&lt;br /&gt;
If everything works, don&#039;t mess with it!&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
But if the first layer didn&#039;t come out, adjust the two screws on the extruder&#039;s side. They are holding the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Print ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Close all instances of printing or monitoring software&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing software (e.g. Cura, pronterface)&lt;br /&gt;
# Load .gcode file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The printing will begin by heating the extruder and the bed. Then the actual plastic will start coming out.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Alternative software workflow ==&lt;br /&gt;
For when Cura refuses to work, there&#039;s an alternate workflow with noncommercial software: [https://slic3r.org/ Slic3r] and [https://www.pronterface.com/ pronterface]. Install them from your favorite source, like the distribution repositories.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
A working slic3r config bundle: (TODO: upload to wiki not allowed).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the STL file with Slic3r&lt;br /&gt;
# Once done with Slic3r slicing, export G-Code&lt;br /&gt;
# Open pronterface, connect to the printer over a USB port with baud 250000&lt;br /&gt;
# Load the G-code file&lt;br /&gt;
# Start the print&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer didn&#039;t come out ===&lt;br /&gt;
Stop the print before the nozzle gets clogged! Adjust the distance sensor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Very little plastic came out! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The nozzle might be clogged. This is likely if there&#039;s a blob of melted plastic on the nozzle. Scrape the metal part with a metal tool. Try extruding again (via computer or built in menu - the nozzle must be hot).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The filament might be stuck. This happens often when replacing the filament. Look at where the tube with filament enters the nozzle element. There&#039;s a kind of a seal there.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Heat up the nozzle up to plastic melting temperature.&lt;br /&gt;
# Press in the seal, pull out the tube together with filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Release the lock mechanism on top of the tube and pull in more filament.&lt;br /&gt;
# Cut off the gnarly end.&lt;br /&gt;
# Straighten the filament by bending it with your finger – it must go all the way in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Push the filament in with your hand. If this worked, the nozzle will squirt melted plastic.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also make sure that the distance sensor is correctly set.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First layer smeared on the build plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
If the first layer is not of even thickness, especially if part of the layer is missing, the print bed is leveled badly. Tweak the corner screws.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A big blob on the nozzle and no object present ===&lt;br /&gt;
The build plate was not clean and the filament didn&#039;t stick to it. Clean the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is moving around on the nozzle! ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object delaminated from the bed? Check if it&#039;s warped and follow the troubleshooting for that.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is warped! ===&lt;br /&gt;
Disconnect the main fan (it&#039;s not software controlled). Making thinner layers can also help a bit.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== I want to print ABS ===&lt;br /&gt;
Sorry, bed heating is not working. ABS will not stick to a cold bed. If you know how to fix this, please do.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Printing&amp;diff=2197</id>
		<title>Printing</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Printing&amp;diff=2197"/>
		<updated>2026-01-25T10:50:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add manual two sided printing&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We have a big printer in the [[Office]]. Here&#039;s how you use it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printer details ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Model: Canon imageRunner Advance C2025i&lt;br /&gt;
* Location: Office (K20-1-4)&lt;br /&gt;
* Type: Laser&lt;br /&gt;
* Color: CMYK&lt;br /&gt;
* Paper size: A4 (Tray 2), A3 (Tray 1), Custom (Manual Feed)&lt;br /&gt;
* Duplex: Yes&lt;br /&gt;
* Scanning: Duplex ADF, to network share or USB&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General information ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* You need to be in the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; [[Wifi|network]] to print.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you use a VPN, you’ll need to switch it off for printing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer consumes ~15W on standby. It may be left on during the day; it should be switched off at night. The power switch is on the right, vertical edge as you face the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
* On startup the printer may ask for the paper size of a paper tray: choose &#039;&#039;“A4 - plain paper”&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes the printer doesn’t wake up from sleep for printing: wake it by pressing the ‘power’ button on top panel.&lt;br /&gt;
* Pressing the ‘eye’ button 👁 let’s you view the current print job(s) and adjust the paper size.&lt;br /&gt;
* Often pages are printed in &#039;&#039;“US Letter”&#039;&#039; format accidentally - but there is only A4 and A3 paper in the printer, so these jobs are rejected with the &#039;&#039;“Load paper”&#039;&#039; instruction.&lt;br /&gt;
* Printing a booklet? Install the easy-to-use [https://kjo.herbesfolles.org/bookletimposer/ bookletimposer] (e.g. &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;sudo apt install bookletimposer&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;) to convert a linear PDF into booklet format. The default settings are probably what you want (i.e. print 2 pages side by side on A4 -&amp;amp;gt; A5 booklet when folded and stapled)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Manual installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;A bit tedious, but reliable&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Linux ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Install the Canon CQue driver:&lt;br /&gt;
#* Arch/Manjaro: &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;yay -S canon-cque&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#* Debian/Ubuntu: download and install the [https://www.canon-europe.com/support/business/products/office-printers/imagerunner/advance/imagerunner-advance-c2025i.html CQue DEB Driver].&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer:&lt;br /&gt;
#* via system settings:&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Settings”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Printers”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Additional Printer Settings…”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“+ Add”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Network Printer”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“AppSocket/HP JetDirect”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Host”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;192.168.4.153&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Pick the driver&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* In &#039;&#039;“Makes”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* In &#039;&#039;“Models”&#039;&#039; choose &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025i”&#039;&#039; and in &#039;&#039;“Drivers”&#039;&#039; choose &#039;&#039;“Canon iR-ADV C2025i PCL”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#** if not available, choose &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025 UFR II”&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025i PXL”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For all further options you can keep the default&lt;br /&gt;
#* via CUPS:&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Open CUPS interface: http://localhost:631&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Administration”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Printers”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039; (You may be asked for your user (sudo) credentials)&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“AppSocket/HP JetDirect”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Connection”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;socket://192.168.4.153:9100&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Provide &#039;&#039;“Name”&#039;&#039; of your choice. &#039;&#039;“Description”&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;“Location”&#039;&#039; can be left empty → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Make”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;Continue&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Model”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon iR-ADV C2025i PCL”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure &#039;&#039;“Media Size”&#039;&#039; is &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039; in the printer settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Linux (less tedious, no download) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer: like above, choose &amp;quot;Generic/Generic PCL 5e Printer&amp;quot; as the make/model.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This builtin driver does not support two-sided printing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Windows ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Download and extract the [https://www.canon-europe.com/support/business/products/office-printers/imagerunner/advance/imagerunner-advance-c2025i.html [Windows 32bit &amp;amp;amp; 64bit] Generic Plus PCL6 Printer Driver]&lt;br /&gt;
#* Make sure you know where the driver is extracted to. It may be in the same folder as the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;.zip&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;, or it might have been cleverly put somewhere by your system. If unsure, try to extract the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;.zip&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; again: it will complain that it’s already been extracted, and show you the path where it’s being extracted to.&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer&lt;br /&gt;
#* Windows 10&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Start”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Settings: Printers and Scanners”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add a printer or scanner”&#039;&#039; Ignore auto-detected printers, click &#039;&#039;“The printer that I want isn’t listed”&#039;&#039; that will appear in some moments.&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Find a printer by other options”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Add a local printer or network printer with manual settings”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Choose a printer port”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Create a new port”&#039;&#039;, and in &#039;&#039;“Type of port”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Standard TCP/IP Port”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Type a printer hostname or IP address”&#039;&#039;, for &#039;&#039;“Hostname or IP address”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;192.168.4.153&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. &#039;&#039;“Port name”&#039;&#039; will auto-fill as you write, leave it as is. Make sure &#039;&#039;“Query the printer and automatically select the driver to use”&#039;&#039; is selected → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Additional port information required”&#039;&#039; leave the &#039;&#039;“Device Type”&#039;&#039; as &#039;&#039;“Standard: Generic Network Card”&#039;&#039;, → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Install the printer driver”&#039;&#039;, select &#039;&#039;“Canon Generic Plus PCL6”&#039;&#039; either through the options list, or by navigating via &#039;&#039;“Have Disk…”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* If you use &#039;&#039;“Have Disk…”&#039;&#039; the path will start with the folder you extracted to (see &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;1.&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;) and end with &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;GPlus_PCL6_Driver_V290_32_64_00\x64\Driver\CNP60MA64.INF&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or similar.&lt;br /&gt;
#*# If you get to &#039;&#039;“Which version of the driver to you want to use?”&#039;&#039; leave the selection as &#039;&#039;“Use the driver that is currently installed (recommended)”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Type a printer name”&#039;&#039;, give the printer a meaningful name for you → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Printer Sharing”&#039;&#039;, leave &#039;&#039;“Do not share this printer”&#039;&#039; selected → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“You’ve successfully added [name]”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Finish”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure &#039;&#039;“Page Size”&#039;&#039; is set to &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#* Windows 10&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Start”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Settings: Printers and Scanners”&#039;&#039; → click on the printer you just added → &#039;&#039;“Manage”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In the new window, click &#039;&#039;“Printing Preferences”&#039;&#039; from the left-side menu&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In the new window, set &#039;&#039;“Page Size”&#039;&#039; to &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Apply”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“OK”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Now try printing the test page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Automatic installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Buggy! Manual installation (above) recommended.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged into &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-insecure&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;, the printer should automatically appear in your print dialogues as &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Kanthaus_CanonC2025_...&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. (The printer is &#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039; accessible from &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-gast&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you don’t see the printer, check your system has [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast_DNS MDNS] For linux, this means having &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;avahi-daemon&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; installed and running, which should be the default on most distibutions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This method prints via the virtual printer installed on the kanthaus [[Server]]. While this should normally work, you might consider installing the printer manually on your system to avoid any potential problems and have a more direct relationship to the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Scanning ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== To USB ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert a USB stick into the printer (slot to the right of the control panel). Press the power button on top to wake printer if sleeping, then press the &#039;&#039;“Scan &amp;amp;amp; Store”&#039;&#039; button on the top of the screen and select the USB Memory Media.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Select options as desired, then press big, green button to scan. Press &#039;&#039;“Start storing”&#039;&#039; to transfer the scan, and finally eject USB stick via small, green button on the bottom-right corner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The USB stick needs to be formatted with the Windows file system FAT to be recognised by the printer/scanner-combination.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
=== To network ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After turning the printer on, press the &#039;&#039;“Scan &amp;amp;amp; Store”&#039;&#039; button on the top of the screen and select the Kanthaus [[Server]] location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After scanning, you will find your files in the [smb://kanthaus-server/scan Scan] share on kanthaus-server. Use the file manager of your system and browse for &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;windows/samba/network shares&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or directly enter the address: &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;smb://kanthaus-server/scan&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. If you are asked for any credentials, you can login anonymously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows 10, you may additionally need to: 1. enable SMB1.0 - in settings, go to &#039;&#039;“Windows Features”&#039;&#039; → tick options starting &#039;&#039;“SMB”&#039;&#039; → click &#039;&#039;“OK”&#039;&#039; 2. map network drive - open file explorer → go to &#039;&#039;“This PC”&#039;&#039; → click &#039;&#039;“Map network drive”&#039;&#039; (top menu bar) - in the pop-up: - for &#039;&#039;“Drive”&#039;&#039;, choose a drive letter (any unused letter, default should be OK) - for &#039;&#039;“Folder”&#039;&#039;, give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;\\kanthaus-server\scan&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Finish”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove your files after scanning: they are accessible to anyone without authentication from all networks except &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-gast&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
== Maintenance/repair ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 2024-06: A4 paper was printing with Magenta and Yellow ‘haze’ on both sides. This issue persisted despite some deep cleaning of the toner cartridges (minimal improvement). The issue magically disappeared after some time.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2024-08: A3 predictably jamming - unresolved.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== General hints ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Manual two-side printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Print every second page (skipping the initial one, may be called &amp;quot;even pages&amp;quot;) of the document in reverse order&lt;br /&gt;
# Reload paper into the printer. Flip and rotate as necessary for the binding side (instruction sheet on printer).&lt;br /&gt;
# Print the rest (may be called &amp;quot;odd pages&amp;quot;), in normal order.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Printing&amp;diff=2196</id>
		<title>Printing</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Printing&amp;diff=2196"/>
		<updated>2026-01-25T10:25:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Manual installation */ Add no download on Linux.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We have a big printer in the [[Office]]. Here&#039;s how you use it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printer details ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Model: Canon imageRunner Advance C2025i&lt;br /&gt;
* Location: Office (K20-1-4)&lt;br /&gt;
* Type: Laser&lt;br /&gt;
* Color: CMYK&lt;br /&gt;
* Paper size: A4 (Tray 2), A3 (Tray 1), Custom (Manual Feed)&lt;br /&gt;
* Duplex: Yes&lt;br /&gt;
* Scanning: Duplex ADF, to network share or USB&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Printing ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== General information ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* You need to be in the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; [[Wifi|network]] to print.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you use a VPN, you’ll need to switch it off for printing.&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer consumes ~15W on standby. It may be left on during the day; it should be switched off at night. The power switch is on the right, vertical edge as you face the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
* On startup the printer may ask for the paper size of a paper tray: choose &#039;&#039;“A4 - plain paper”&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
* Sometimes the printer doesn’t wake up from sleep for printing: wake it by pressing the ‘power’ button on top panel.&lt;br /&gt;
* Pressing the ‘eye’ button 👁 let’s you view the current print job(s) and adjust the paper size.&lt;br /&gt;
* Often pages are printed in &#039;&#039;“US Letter”&#039;&#039; format accidentally - but there is only A4 and A3 paper in the printer, so these jobs are rejected with the &#039;&#039;“Load paper”&#039;&#039; instruction.&lt;br /&gt;
* Printing a booklet? Install the easy-to-use [https://kjo.herbesfolles.org/bookletimposer/ bookletimposer] (e.g. &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;sudo apt install bookletimposer&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;) to convert a linear PDF into booklet format. The default settings are probably what you want (i.e. print 2 pages side by side on A4 -&amp;amp;gt; A5 booklet when folded and stapled)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Manual installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;A bit tedious, but reliable&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Linux ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Install the Canon CQue driver:&lt;br /&gt;
#* Arch/Manjaro: &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;yay -S canon-cque&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
#* Debian/Ubuntu: download and install the [https://www.canon-europe.com/support/business/products/office-printers/imagerunner/advance/imagerunner-advance-c2025i.html CQue DEB Driver].&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer:&lt;br /&gt;
#* via system settings:&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Settings”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Printers”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Additional Printer Settings…”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“+ Add”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Network Printer”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“AppSocket/HP JetDirect”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Host”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;192.168.4.153&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Pick the driver&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* In &#039;&#039;“Makes”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* In &#039;&#039;“Models”&#039;&#039; choose &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025i”&#039;&#039; and in &#039;&#039;“Drivers”&#039;&#039; choose &#039;&#039;“Canon iR-ADV C2025i PCL”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Forward”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#** if not available, choose &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025 UFR II”&#039;&#039; or &#039;&#039;“iR-ADV C2025i PXL”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For all further options you can keep the default&lt;br /&gt;
#* via CUPS:&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Open CUPS interface: http://localhost:631&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Administration”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Printers”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039; (You may be asked for your user (sudo) credentials)&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“AppSocket/HP JetDirect”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Connection”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;socket://192.168.4.153:9100&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Provide &#039;&#039;“Name”&#039;&#039; of your choice. &#039;&#039;“Description”&#039;&#039; and &#039;&#039;“Location”&#039;&#039; can be left empty → &#039;&#039;“Continue”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Make”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;Continue&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# For &#039;&#039;“Model”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Canon iR-ADV C2025i PCL”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add Printer”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure &#039;&#039;“Media Size”&#039;&#039; is &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039; in the printer settings.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Linux (less tedious, no download) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer: like above, choose &amp;quot;Generic/Generic PCL 5e Printer&amp;quot; as the make/model.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This builtin driver does not support two-sided printing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Windows ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Download and extract the [https://www.canon-europe.com/support/business/products/office-printers/imagerunner/advance/imagerunner-advance-c2025i.html [Windows 32bit &amp;amp;amp; 64bit] Generic Plus PCL6 Printer Driver]&lt;br /&gt;
#* Make sure you know where the driver is extracted to. It may be in the same folder as the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;.zip&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;, or it might have been cleverly put somewhere by your system. If unsure, try to extract the &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;.zip&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; again: it will complain that it’s already been extracted, and show you the path where it’s being extracted to.&lt;br /&gt;
# Add printer&lt;br /&gt;
#* Windows 10&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Start”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Settings: Printers and Scanners”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Add a printer or scanner”&#039;&#039; Ignore auto-detected printers, click &#039;&#039;“The printer that I want isn’t listed”&#039;&#039; that will appear in some moments.&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Find a printer by other options”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Add a local printer or network printer with manual settings”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Choose a printer port”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Create a new port”&#039;&#039;, and in &#039;&#039;“Type of port”&#039;&#039; select &#039;&#039;“Standard TCP/IP Port”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Type a printer hostname or IP address”&#039;&#039;, for &#039;&#039;“Hostname or IP address”&#039;&#039; give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;192.168.4.153&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. &#039;&#039;“Port name”&#039;&#039; will auto-fill as you write, leave it as is. Make sure &#039;&#039;“Query the printer and automatically select the driver to use”&#039;&#039; is selected → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Additional port information required”&#039;&#039; leave the &#039;&#039;“Device Type”&#039;&#039; as &#039;&#039;“Standard: Generic Network Card”&#039;&#039;, → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Install the printer driver”&#039;&#039;, select &#039;&#039;“Canon Generic Plus PCL6”&#039;&#039; either through the options list, or by navigating via &#039;&#039;“Have Disk…”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*#* If you use &#039;&#039;“Have Disk…”&#039;&#039; the path will start with the folder you extracted to (see &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;1.&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;) and end with &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;GPlus_PCL6_Driver_V290_32_64_00\x64\Driver\CNP60MA64.INF&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or similar.&lt;br /&gt;
#*# If you get to &#039;&#039;“Which version of the driver to you want to use?”&#039;&#039; leave the selection as &#039;&#039;“Use the driver that is currently installed (recommended)”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Type a printer name”&#039;&#039;, give the printer a meaningful name for you → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“Printer Sharing”&#039;&#039;, leave &#039;&#039;“Do not share this printer”&#039;&#039; selected → &#039;&#039;“Next”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In &#039;&#039;“You’ve successfully added [name]”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Finish”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
# Ensure &#039;&#039;“Page Size”&#039;&#039; is set to &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#* Windows 10&lt;br /&gt;
#*# &#039;&#039;“Start”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Settings: Printers and Scanners”&#039;&#039; → click on the printer you just added → &#039;&#039;“Manage”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In the new window, click &#039;&#039;“Printing Preferences”&#039;&#039; from the left-side menu&lt;br /&gt;
#*# In the new window, set &#039;&#039;“Page Size”&#039;&#039; to &#039;&#039;“A4”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“Apply”&#039;&#039; → &#039;&#039;“OK”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
#*# Now try printing the test page.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Automatic installation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;Buggy! Manual installation (above) recommended.&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you are logged into &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-insecure&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;, the printer should automatically appear in your print dialogues as &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;Kanthaus_CanonC2025_...&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. (The printer is &#039;&#039;not&#039;&#039; accessible from &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-gast&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;.)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you don’t see the printer, check your system has [https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multicast_DNS MDNS] For linux, this means having &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;avahi-daemon&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; installed and running, which should be the default on most distibutions.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This method prints via the virtual printer installed on the kanthaus [[Server]]. While this should normally work, you might consider installing the printer manually on your system to avoid any potential problems and have a more direct relationship to the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Scanning ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== To USB ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Insert a USB stick into the printer (slot to the right of the control panel). Press the power button on top to wake printer if sleeping, then press the &#039;&#039;“Scan &amp;amp;amp; Store”&#039;&#039; button on the top of the screen and select the USB Memory Media.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Select options as desired, then press big, green button to scan. Press &#039;&#039;“Start storing”&#039;&#039; to transfer the scan, and finally eject USB stick via small, green button on the bottom-right corner.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; The USB stick needs to be formatted with the Windows file system FAT to be recognised by the printer/scanner-combination.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
=== To network ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After turning the printer on, press the &#039;&#039;“Scan &amp;amp;amp; Store”&#039;&#039; button on the top of the screen and select the Kanthaus [[Server]] location.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After scanning, you will find your files in the [smb://kanthaus-server/scan Scan] share on kanthaus-server. Use the file manager of your system and browse for &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;windows/samba/network shares&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; or directly enter the address: &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;smb://kanthaus-server/scan&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;. If you are asked for any credentials, you can login anonymously.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For Windows 10, you may additionally need to: 1. enable SMB1.0 - in settings, go to &#039;&#039;“Windows Features”&#039;&#039; → tick options starting &#039;&#039;“SMB”&#039;&#039; → click &#039;&#039;“OK”&#039;&#039; 2. map network drive - open file explorer → go to &#039;&#039;“This PC”&#039;&#039; → click &#039;&#039;“Map network drive”&#039;&#039; (top menu bar) - in the pop-up: - for &#039;&#039;“Drive”&#039;&#039;, choose a drive letter (any unused letter, default should be OK) - for &#039;&#039;“Folder”&#039;&#039;, give &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;\\kanthaus-server\scan&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt; → &#039;&#039;“Finish”&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;&#039;&#039;&#039;Note:&#039;&#039;&#039; Remove your files after scanning: they are accessible to anyone without authentication from all networks except &amp;lt;code&amp;gt;kanthaus-gast&amp;lt;/code&amp;gt;.&lt;br /&gt;
&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
== Maintenance/repair ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* 2024-06: A4 paper was printing with Magenta and Yellow ‘haze’ on both sides. This issue persisted despite some deep cleaning of the toner cartridges (minimal improvement). The issue magically disappeared after some time.&lt;br /&gt;
* 2024-08: A3 predictably jamming - unresolved.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2053</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2053"/>
		<updated>2025-08-28T05:06:58Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Models */ inventory&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Models ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele S711 (filter: FS-AH 30, bag: TODO) in green-blue&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele model unknown, similar to S711 in blue&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele Classic C1 special (filter similar to FS-HA 30. but not compatible)&lt;br /&gt;
* Rowenta&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Filters ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* FS-AH30 HEPA filters (on the shelf)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2035</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2035"/>
		<updated>2025-08-11T10:49:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: More models&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Models ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele S711 (filter: FS-AH 30, bag: TODO) in green-blue&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele model unknown, similar to S711 in blue&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele Classic C1 special (filter similar to FS-HA 30)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO: exact models, HEPA filters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2034</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2034"/>
		<updated>2025-08-11T08:35:31Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: added one vacuum model&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Models ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Miele S711 (filter: FS-AH 30, bag: TODO)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO: exact models, HEPA filters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2033</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2033"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:12:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Rename category to &amp;quot;tools&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO: exact models, HEPA filters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2032</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2032"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:11:52Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Rename category to &amp;quot;tools&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO: exact models, HEPA filters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=2031</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=2031"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:11:33Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Rename category to &amp;quot;tools&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== This is experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cover containers with resin with thick bags after placing in the box&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
Internet suggests [https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-transparent-parts-techniques-for-finishing-clear-resin/ solutions] like varnish, spray, or dipping in resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaner_robots&amp;diff=2030</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaner robots</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaner_robots&amp;diff=2030"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:11:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Rename category to &amp;quot;tools&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We live in a time when people throw away working vacbots 🤷 we save them 🦾 (To be fair, a lot of the first generation ones are sufficiently annoying to use that sweeping may be preferable.) There is a box with vacbots and parts in the [[Electronics workshop]].&lt;br /&gt;
== General ==&lt;br /&gt;
Vacbots do not like: cables, clothes pegs, shoe laces, paper tissues, loads of hair, wet/sticky stuff, etc. Do a quick check that such things are not in the intended cleaning area in the evening/night. Checking and emptying the vacbots as soon as possible in the morning is recommended, since they may not find their way home and be in the way.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regularly check brushes and remove caught hair, etc. It is typically easier to remove the brushes completely to do so. Be gentle clipping and unclipping 🪶 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Current deployment ==&lt;br /&gt;
Right now the 2 Tesvor X500s are stationed in the [[dining room]] (under the chair beside the couch) and at the K20 entrance (under the black set of drawers): they are both scheduled to clean at 04:00. To be sure that Tesvors will do scheduled cleaning, make sure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# the physical switch is on &lt;br /&gt;
# the clock and program are properly set (via remote control)&lt;br /&gt;
# one or both fan icons are showing on the remote control (&#039;&#039;&#039;Note&#039;&#039;&#039;: you need to reset fan if you press the &amp;quot;go to charging station&amp;quot; button!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
!Make&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&lt;br /&gt;
!Docs&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Status&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tesvor&lt;br /&gt;
|X500&lt;br /&gt;
|[[:File:X500 User Manual.pdf|X500 User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|1 rescued, 1 bought used (~30€)&lt;br /&gt;
|Works well.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Quigg&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|~5&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Works. Emptying annoying, scheduling very unreliable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Roomba&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Works. Charging issues, no remote, no charging port nor charging station.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dirt Devil&lt;br /&gt;
|Spider 2.0&lt;br /&gt;
|[[:File:Spider 2.0 User Manual.pdf|Spider 2.0 User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Unknown. &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Responsible&lt;br /&gt;
!Since&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[User:Doug]]&lt;br /&gt;
|2025&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tools]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2029</id>
		<title>Chemistry lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2029"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:10:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Rename &amp;quot;rooms&amp;quot; to &amp;quot;room&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A small chemical lab inside K18, 2nd floor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Workstations (tables) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* one covered with tiles, for working with open chemicals&lt;br /&gt;
* one regular desk for writing and computering&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT use any of the pipes in the room. They are not connected and leaking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Water buckets ==&lt;br /&gt;
Because there is no water system, fresh water must be taken from downstairs in the bucket. Waste water must be taken downstairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waste water bucket must contain only &#039;&#039;&#039;chemicals diluted to safe levels&#039;&#039;&#039; - follow the guidance for your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please don&#039;t put anything more dangerous than dirt and soap in the soapy water bucket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Resin printer|Resin 3D printer]], including resin curing stuff, supporting tools, and the resin printing log&lt;br /&gt;
* Brown glass bottles&lt;br /&gt;
* [[PCB etching]] set, including jars with half-used chemicals and the PCB etching journal&lt;br /&gt;
* Stickers and markers for labelling&lt;br /&gt;
* Whiteboards made of plastic cardboard plus dry-erase markers&lt;br /&gt;
* Buckets for waste water&lt;br /&gt;
* Soap and other cleaning tools&lt;br /&gt;
* A lab book and pens&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:K18]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Rooms]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2028</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaners</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaners&amp;diff=2028"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:09:25Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Added short description of vacuum cleaners&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Kanthaus generally standardizes on Miele vacuum cleaners for general use. They are stored in the [[Intermediate storage]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The workshops have their own set of vacuum cleaners, including a Festool industrial one.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
TODO: exact models, HEPA filters.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== See also ==&lt;br /&gt;
[[Vacuum cleaner robots]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tool]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaner_robots&amp;diff=2027</id>
		<title>Vacuum cleaner robots</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Vacuum_cleaner_robots&amp;diff=2027"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:06:54Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add tool category&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;We live in a time when people throw away working vacbots 🤷 we save them 🦾 (To be fair, a lot of the first generation ones are sufficiently annoying to use that sweeping may be preferable.) There is a box with vacbots and parts in the [[Electronics workshop]].&lt;br /&gt;
== General ==&lt;br /&gt;
Vacbots do not like: cables, clothes pegs, shoe laces, paper tissues, loads of hair, wet/sticky stuff, etc. Do a quick check that such things are not in the intended cleaning area in the evening/night. Checking and emptying the vacbots as soon as possible in the morning is recommended, since they may not find their way home and be in the way.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Regularly check brushes and remove caught hair, etc. It is typically easier to remove the brushes completely to do so. Be gentle clipping and unclipping 🪶 &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Current deployment ==&lt;br /&gt;
Right now the 2 Tesvor X500s are stationed in the [[dining room]] (under the chair beside the couch) and at the K20 entrance (under the black set of drawers): they are both scheduled to clean at 04:00. To be sure that Tesvors will do scheduled cleaning, make sure:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# the physical switch is on &lt;br /&gt;
# the clock and program are properly set (via remote control)&lt;br /&gt;
# one or both fan icons are showing on the remote control (&#039;&#039;&#039;Note&#039;&#039;&#039;: you need to reset fan if you press the &amp;quot;go to charging station&amp;quot; button!)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
|+Inventory&lt;br /&gt;
!Make&lt;br /&gt;
!Model&lt;br /&gt;
!Docs&lt;br /&gt;
!Number&lt;br /&gt;
!Source&lt;br /&gt;
!Status&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Tesvor&lt;br /&gt;
|X500&lt;br /&gt;
|[[:File:X500 User Manual.pdf|X500 User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
|2&lt;br /&gt;
|1 rescued, 1 bought used (~30€)&lt;br /&gt;
|Works well.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Quigg&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|~5&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Works. Emptying annoying, scheduling very unreliable.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Roomba&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Works. Charging issues, no remote, no charging port nor charging station.&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|Dirt Devil&lt;br /&gt;
|Spider 2.0&lt;br /&gt;
|[[:File:Spider 2.0 User Manual.pdf|Spider 2.0 User Manual]]&lt;br /&gt;
|1&lt;br /&gt;
|Rescued&lt;br /&gt;
|Unknown. &lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
{| class=&amp;quot;wikitable&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
!Responsible&lt;br /&gt;
!Since&lt;br /&gt;
|-&lt;br /&gt;
|[[User:Doug]]&lt;br /&gt;
|2025&lt;br /&gt;
|}&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repro]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tool]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=2026</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=2026"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:05:42Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add tool category&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== This is experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cover containers with resin with thick bags after placing in the box&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
Internet suggests [https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-transparent-parts-techniques-for-finishing-clear-resin/ solutions] like varnish, spray, or dipping in resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Tool]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2025</id>
		<title>Chemistry lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2025"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:05:10Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add place categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A small chemical lab inside K18, 2nd floor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Workstations (tables) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* one covered with tiles, for working with open chemicals&lt;br /&gt;
* one regular desk for writing and computering&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT use any of the pipes in the room. They are not connected and leaking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Water buckets ==&lt;br /&gt;
Because there is no water system, fresh water must be taken from downstairs in the bucket. Waste water must be taken downstairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waste water bucket must contain only &#039;&#039;&#039;chemicals diluted to safe levels&#039;&#039;&#039; - follow the guidance for your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please don&#039;t put anything more dangerous than dirt and soap in the soapy water bucket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Resin printer|Resin 3D printer]], including resin curing stuff, supporting tools, and the resin printing log&lt;br /&gt;
* Brown glass bottles&lt;br /&gt;
* [[PCB etching]] set, including jars with half-used chemicals and the PCB etching journal&lt;br /&gt;
* Stickers and markers for labelling&lt;br /&gt;
* Whiteboards made of plastic cardboard plus dry-erase markers&lt;br /&gt;
* Buckets for waste water&lt;br /&gt;
* Soap and other cleaning tools&lt;br /&gt;
* A lab book and pens&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Room]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:K18]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2024</id>
		<title>Chemistry lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2024"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T15:04:18Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Usage instructions&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A small chemical lab inside K18, 2nd floor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Workstations (tables) ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* one covered with tiles, for working with open chemicals&lt;br /&gt;
* one regular desk for writing and computering&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
DO NOT use any of the pipes in the room. They are not connected and leaking.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Water buckets ==&lt;br /&gt;
Because there is no water system, fresh water must be taken from downstairs in the bucket. Waste water must be taken downstairs.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The waste water bucket must contain only &#039;&#039;&#039;chemicals diluted to safe levels&#039;&#039;&#039; - follow the guidance for your project.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Please don&#039;t put anything more dangerous than dirt and soap in the soapy water bucket.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Equipment ==&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Resin printer|Resin 3D printer]], including resin curing stuff, supporting tools, and the resin printing log&lt;br /&gt;
* Brown glass bottles&lt;br /&gt;
* [[PCB etching]] set, including jars with half-used chemicals and the PCB etching journal&lt;br /&gt;
* Stickers and markers for labelling&lt;br /&gt;
* Whiteboards made of plastic cardboard plus dry-erase markers&lt;br /&gt;
* Buckets for waste water&lt;br /&gt;
* Soap and other cleaning tools&lt;br /&gt;
* A lab book and pens&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2023</id>
		<title>Chemistry lab</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Chemistry_lab&amp;diff=2023"/>
		<updated>2025-08-10T14:58:06Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: New place in K18 with new stuff&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;A small chemical lab inside K18, 2nd floor.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Contains:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Resin printer|Resin 3D printer]], including resin curing stuff, supporting tools, and the resin printing log&lt;br /&gt;
* Brown glass bottles&lt;br /&gt;
* [[PCB etching]] set, including jars with half-used chemicals and the PCB etching journal&lt;br /&gt;
* Stickers and markers for labelling&lt;br /&gt;
* Whiteboards made of plastic cardboard plus dry-erase markers&lt;br /&gt;
* Buckets for waste water&lt;br /&gt;
* Soap and other cleaning tools&lt;br /&gt;
* A general lab book and pens&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Don&#039;t just go in and use it. Find the person responsible first.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluation_record&amp;diff=1934</id>
		<title>Evaluation record</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluation_record&amp;diff=1934"/>
		<updated>2025-04-21T06:05:02Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Link evaluation record file.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;📝 In the evaluation record, we record a summary of the [[Positions and evaluations|evaluations required by our positions system]]. [https://git.kanthaus.online/kanthaus/kanthaus-private/src/branch/master/evaluationRecord.yml The file] is stored in [https://git.kanthaus.online/kanthaus/kanthaus-private kanthaus-private] (a [[Git|git repository]]). At the end of an evaluation, the facilitator is expected to record the evaluation in this table.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Structure ==&lt;br /&gt;
The evaluation record is a table (written in CSV format), containing for each evaluation the following fields: - Date - Person being evaluated - Position before the evaluation - Position applied for - New position - People who got to vote on the position - Other non-voting people present at the evaluation - Notes, giving a broad summary of the topics of the evaluation and the general situation of the evaluee.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Uses ==&lt;br /&gt;
In combination with the [[residence record]], this file is used to determine automatically who is due for evaluation before each [[CoMe]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This file can also be consulted by Volunteers and Members who were unable to attend an evaluation, to get a gist of what was said.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Occasionally, this file is analyzed to gather statistics about our position system or attendance of evaluations.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Social]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Digital]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Positions_and_evaluations&amp;diff=1933</id>
		<title>Positions and evaluations</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Positions_and_evaluations&amp;diff=1933"/>
		<updated>2025-04-21T05:53:51Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add after evaluation&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;{{Warning|This appears to be a duplicate of a page on the website https://kanthaus.online/en/governance/positionsandevaluations Consider deleting one or the other.}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
👍️ This document is meant to give an overview about the structure of social hierarchy at Kanthaus.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Positions ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are 3 positions at Kanthaus, in ascending level of responsibility &#039;&#039;and&#039;&#039; power they are: Visitor, Volunteer and Member. These Positions reflect and regulate the actual responsibility and power people hold. People move between Positions based on &#039;&#039;&#039;evaluation.&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Evaluation ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Everyone at Kanthaus gets evaluated—it’s normal! Evaluation is a formal opportunity for you and the rest of the Kanthaus community to honestly inspect how that relationship is going and which Position suits you at this time: the whole thing lasts for ~1,5 hours. This document is a more human-readable version of the formal agreements located in the [https://kanthaus.online/governance/constitution Constitution].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 1. Meeting with Kanthaus Volunteers and Members (~75 minutes) ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When it is time for your evaluation, a meeting will be arranged with you in which you and existing Kanthaus Members and Volunteers are invited. This will probably be done during a Coordination Meeting. No official notes will be taken, although you are welcome to take notes if you want, and an informal summary will be shared with the other Volunteers and Members afterwards. The only question that needs to be answered is whether you want to apply to continue at your current Position (e.g. Visitor) or progress to the next Position (e.g. Volunteer); aside from that the discussion is open and you are warmly invited to ask anything you want an answer to. Questions to consider include—&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* What project-work are you doing for Kanthaus, Wurzen or elsewhere?&lt;br /&gt;
* Where do you see your role in Kanthaus?&lt;br /&gt;
* What do you see as your strengths/allowable weaknesses?&lt;br /&gt;
* What have you enjoyed/disliked about your time so far?&lt;br /&gt;
* How do you prefer to receive critical feedback?&lt;br /&gt;
* Do you have any outstanding conflicts with people involved at Kanthaus?&lt;br /&gt;
* Do you have allergies, dietary requirements or medical conditions you want to tell us about?&lt;br /&gt;
* What are your plans for the future?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 2. Kanthaus Members and Volunteers meet privately (~15 minutes) ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
After meeting with you, the Kanthaus Members and Volunteers will meet without you to decide which Position they find appropriate for you at this time. This meeting has three stages—&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2.1. ‘Mock’ vote&#039;&#039;&#039; Before any discussion takes place, the question will be asked, &#039;&#039;“Do you support, accept or oppose (your name) becoming/remaining as a (Position you applied for) at this point in time?”&#039;&#039; The participants will vote anonymously and see the predictive result.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2.2. Discussion&#039;&#039;&#039; The participants will talk personally about the result and any personal opinions they have. There is no particular format.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&#039;&#039;&#039;2.3. Vote&#039;&#039;&#039; Again the question will be asked, &#039;&#039;“Do you support, accept or oppose (your name) becoming/remaining as a (Position you applied for) at this point in time?”&#039;&#039; and again the participants will vote anonymously. A successful outcome occurs when there are 3 or more times as many ‘support’ votes to ‘oppose’ votes (e.g. 4 ‘support’, 2 ‘accept’ and 1 ‘oppose’.) If unsuccessful, the procedure will be repeated at the lower position, for example: if you requested to become Volunteer and it was unsuccessful, the process would be repeated as if you’d applied to remain as a Visitor. Only the result of the vote, not the individual votes, are recorded.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== 3. Position outcome and feedback (~5 minutes) ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You will receive feedback immediately regarding which Position you are offered and further feedback if you weren’t offered the Position you applied for.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== After evaluation ==&lt;br /&gt;
The facilitator should fill out the [[evaluation record]].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Social]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:test]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Meeting]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluations&amp;diff=1932</id>
		<title>Evaluations</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluations&amp;diff=1932"/>
		<updated>2025-04-21T05:52:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: tags&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[Positions and evaluations]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Social]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Meeting]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluations&amp;diff=1931</id>
		<title>Evaluations</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Evaluations&amp;diff=1931"/>
		<updated>2025-04-21T05:51:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: Add entry in the index&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;#REDIRECT [[Positions and evaluations]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1909</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1909"/>
		<updated>2025-04-08T09:37:32Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* More ideas for translucent */ this editor eats data&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== This is experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cover containers with resin with thick bags after placing in the box&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
Internet suggests [https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-transparent-parts-techniques-for-finishing-clear-resin/ solutions] like varnish, spray, or dipping in resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1895</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1895"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T13:52:49Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* The materials and equipment */ cover resin&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== This is experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cover containers with resin with thick bags after placing in the box&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1894</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1894"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T13:51:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Experimental */ experimental label&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== This is experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1893</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1893"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T13:50:56Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: how not to mess up&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and even translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
** a metal sponge&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== How to not mess up ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Our health and environment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The materials and equipment ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1886</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1886"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T06:57:43Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Contents */ log example&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A nail curing device with a power supply&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face masks&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
* The experiment log and a pen&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Safety ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cleanliness ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Materials ===&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Start a new entry in the log&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== The experiment and material log ==&lt;br /&gt;
The printer requires a surprising amount of experience to operate well. It also needs maintenance in case of problems. The log helps us kep track of things when they go wrong.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Suggested format:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Type (print, clean, etc)&lt;br /&gt;
* Name of the object&lt;br /&gt;
* Material used&lt;br /&gt;
* Exposure time, or any other parameter that changed&lt;br /&gt;
* Print outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing procedure&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing outcome&lt;br /&gt;
* Anomalies&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
For example:&amp;lt;blockquote&amp;gt;PRINT: 3 big pyramids&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Resin: translucent raspberry (1/128 Rose Red pigment)&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Exposure time: 2s&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* One pyramid missing a support.&lt;br /&gt;
* Resin leaked on the screen through foil&lt;br /&gt;
* Flakes of resin over the models&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Cleaning: isoprop bath, flakes still on. Removed with a swab. Applied resin wth brush.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid without support (A) curing under the nail polish lamp.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids with supports (B, C) curing outside in the sun.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramid A 3x60s. Still did not cure fully.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Pyramids B, C have pollen got all over them.&amp;lt;/blockquote&amp;gt;&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1885</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1885"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T06:47:07Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Shiny and translucent objects */ much stuff&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face mask&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Safety ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cleanliness ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Materials ===&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== More ideas for translucent =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Software ==&lt;br /&gt;
Designing models: various software, e.g. [https://openscad.org/ OpenSCAD].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Slicer: PrusaSlicer takes in STL files. Make sure to set all the parameters correctly (wiki doesn&#039;t accept config files, you have to ask the person).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Delivery: USB stick. Place the resulting .pwms file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layers will have excess resin form into a hardened rim.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1.5s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase the exposure time.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the supports are just too weak.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== A few supports broken ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the rim forms from resin slowly being pressed out under [https://blog.honzamrazek.cz/2022/01/prints-not-sticking-to-the-build-plate-layer-separation-rough-surface-on-a-resin-printer-resin-viscosity-the-common-denominator/ extreme forces acting on the first layer].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1884</id>
		<title>Resin 3D printer</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Resin_3D_printer&amp;diff=1884"/>
		<updated>2025-04-07T06:34:44Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: /* Contents */ editor crapped out&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;🛸 Location: [[Chemistry lab]]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Another 3D printer. It uses liquid resin which gets solidified using UV light rather than solid plastic which gets melted into a new shape. It&#039;s slower (each print takes a day or 2), dirtier, and requires more effort, but it promises more detailed objects and translucent objects, compared to the filament printer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Contents ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The printer itself: Anycubic Photon Mono SE&lt;br /&gt;
* A curing cookie box with UV light inside&lt;br /&gt;
* A roll of toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* A small jar with isopropyl alcohol to wash prints&lt;br /&gt;
* A box with:&lt;br /&gt;
** bottles of resin (grey, transparent)&lt;br /&gt;
** film replacements&lt;br /&gt;
** resin filters&lt;br /&gt;
** vials with extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
** rubber gloves&lt;br /&gt;
** face mask&lt;br /&gt;
* A tray with:&lt;br /&gt;
** a knife to pry prints off the build plate&lt;br /&gt;
** a silicon spatula to stir resin in the vat&lt;br /&gt;
** a syringe to measure resin&lt;br /&gt;
** a brush to spread resin to make prints shiny&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Experimental ===&lt;br /&gt;
This printer is currently in the experimental state. Please don&#039;t use it without first talking to someone who has some experience.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Precautions ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before starting.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Safety ===&lt;br /&gt;
Using the printer involves dangerous chemicals and processes:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin is a skin irritant - wear gloves and glasses. Always wash your hands after handling objects in the printer station.&lt;br /&gt;
* the resin stinks and can&#039;t be healthy - make sure there&#039;s enough ventillation (there&#039;s a pipe in the wash room)&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol for cleaning is an irritant and stinky&lt;br /&gt;
* the printer emits near-UV light, which leaks outside and [https://www.nature.com/articles/s41598-018-30738-6?error=cookies_not_supported&amp;amp;code=d80aa4b6-92fd-481b-915c-bddcd98eab3b damages] living organisms - rather be outside the room when it&#039;s working&lt;br /&gt;
* drop used toilet paper in the chemical waste bucket on the floor&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Cleanliness ===&lt;br /&gt;
Resin is sensitive to sunlight (405nm wavelength) and hardens after a day or so even in the relative dark.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe resin from surfaces using toilet paper when you leave the station.&lt;br /&gt;
* Use brown containers to store extra resin&lt;br /&gt;
* After using a brush or syringe or some other tool with resin, wash it well with isopropyl alcohol.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Materials ===&lt;br /&gt;
If you want to put resin back in the bottle from the vat, filter it with a proper filter to avoid hard pieces getting in.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Hard flakes from failed prints damage the foil which will need replacing earlier.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Mechanics of usage ==&lt;br /&gt;
Read this before designing any object for printing. Maybe you realize you don&#039;t actually want to bother.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You&#039;ll need:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
* toothbrush&lt;br /&gt;
* isopropyl alcohol&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== First-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the vat, &#039;&#039;&#039;carefully&#039;&#039;&#039; slide it out (don&#039;t scratch the display underneath)&lt;br /&gt;
# Clean out the remaining resin with a silicon spatula, and by rubbing a piece of cloth soaked in isopropyl alchol (unless you want to re-use the resin).&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the screen interface to lift the arm up a lot.&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the hex bolt on the side of the lifting arm. It should be possible to wobble it without a lot of force.&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the interface to level the arm: press the &amp;quot;home&amp;quot; icon.&lt;br /&gt;
# Once the arm is flat on the display, adjust the rotation and repeat leveling if needed&lt;br /&gt;
# Hold the arm to the display and tighten the screw.&lt;br /&gt;
# Save the setting in the software.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fill in the vat with resin. Make sure the &#039;&#039;&#039;entire&#039;&#039;&#039; bottom is covered, and that there is enough extra resin for the object.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Every-time preparation ===&lt;br /&gt;
# Take out the vat.&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe any spilled resin off the UV screen.&lt;br /&gt;
# Scratch off hardened resin from UV screen &#039;&#039;&#039;with a fingernail&#039;&#039;&#039;.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slush the resin in the vat, look against a light for unevenness floating on the surface. Hard pieces have the same color as the fluid so they are invisible.&lt;br /&gt;
# Fish them all out with a toothbrush.&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide in the vat, screw it in.&lt;br /&gt;
# Close the lid.&lt;br /&gt;
# Power off the printer.&lt;br /&gt;
# Insert USB stick with the prepared file&lt;br /&gt;
# Power on the device&lt;br /&gt;
# Select the file in the interface&lt;br /&gt;
# Start printing&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Printing ===&lt;br /&gt;
Leave the room, leave ventillation on, and come back in a couple hours.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing ===&lt;br /&gt;
The object will be stuck to the top plate and everything will be sticky with resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# Unscrew the big screw on top of the lifting arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Slide out the build plate from the arm&lt;br /&gt;
# Use the knife to gently pry your object off the build plate, and put the object on toilet paper&lt;br /&gt;
# Wipe the remaining resin from the build plate.&lt;br /&gt;
# Replace the build plate and screw it back on.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Finishing the object ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Excess resin ====&lt;br /&gt;
If your object has fine details, you want to get rid of excess resin, because it will harden with exposure to natural UV light and take details away.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toilet paper =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, wipe. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Toothbrush =====&lt;br /&gt;
soak with isopropyl alcohol, brush. It might be enough.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Isoprop bath =====&lt;br /&gt;
Put object in the jar with isopropyl alcohol, shake for a minute.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Curing ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Curing in the sun works well. The print will start curing after seconds in full sun.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental curing box with UV light inside. It seems to need several hours to cure unwashed resin. Please write your experiences using it in the paper log.&lt;br /&gt;
* There&#039;s an experimental nail curing machine. It has no box and switches off after 60s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sources say exposure to oxygen prevents curing.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Shiny and translucent objects ====&lt;br /&gt;
Objects come out matte after cleaning. Shiny/translucent surfaces take a lot more care.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove flakes from the surface. Use cotton swabs if needed to reach difficult spots. Form them into a spike with your fingers if you need to access corners.&lt;br /&gt;
* Dip brush in resin, cover the surface with a layer as thin as you can.&lt;br /&gt;
* Cure fast! The resin will not stay in place for long.Software&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The USB stick must be MBR (ms-dos), Fat32 formatted (primary partition).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
PrusaSlicer can produce files compatible with this printer. Place the resulting file in the root directory of the USB stick.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Random tips ==&lt;br /&gt;
Large objects can be hollowed out by the slicer.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can print directly on the base if you select &amp;quot;Pad: around object&amp;quot;. The first layer will be flatter.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
You can save resin on big objects by creating a hollowed-out profile. Wall thickness of 1mm should be enough for more uses.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
This is a monochromatic model, meaning it&#039;s fast. 1s is enough exposure time for 0.05mm layer height. When it&#039;s cold, use 2s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Translucent objects ===&lt;br /&gt;
They won&#039;t shine after cleaning, but rather be cloudy. Internet suggests [https://formlabs.com/blog/3d-printing-transparent-parts-techniques-for-finishing-clear-resin/ solutions] like varnish, spray, or dipping in resin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Nail polish varnish scratches off easily, smells, and feels slightly rubbery&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Problems ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The object is stuck to the plate so hard it breaks while scraping ===&lt;br /&gt;
Reduce exposure time for the first layer from 40s to 20s.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== No object, only supports on the plate ===&lt;br /&gt;
Slow down retraction, also add more supports and position the object better. [https://ameralabs.com/blog/6-tips-3d-printing-supports/ More info].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the plate pulls the object up and away from the membrane. That&#039;s a strong pull (makes noise) and weak or off-center supports may not survive it (pay attention to rotating forces?).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Gaps in object ===&lt;br /&gt;
Increase wait time after dropping and before light on (tested and works).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Rationale: the build plate needs to settle at the minimal penetration height. This takes time because resin is very viscous.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== The side attached to the plate is too flat ===&lt;br /&gt;
Use supports and cut them off later. The first layers will be overexposed in order to stick to the plate, and have relatively bad quality.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Manufacturing]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Repair]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Technical]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_Hour/Main_Kitchen&amp;diff=1880</id>
		<title>Power Hour/Main Kitchen</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_Hour/Main_Kitchen&amp;diff=1880"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:29Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The kitchen should stay sanitary to prevent poisoning and mould growing in the corners. It should also be organized to let people work comfortably and safely around sharp objects.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Empty the drying rack ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Take dry items from the rack and place them in their typical resting places: pots near the stove, large knives above the table, small knives in the drawer, etc.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Wash the dishes ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wash by hand: large items, wooden items, sharp knives. Place them on the rack on the left to dry&lt;br /&gt;
* Put compatible items in the dishwasher (follow [[dishwashing]] instructions)&lt;br /&gt;
* Super-large pots can be washed downstairs in the wash bathroom in the bathtub&lt;br /&gt;
* Pay attention to coated pots and pans: they will not survive scrubbing with metal&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the sink ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* remember to remove stuff clogging the drain. Put in the food waste&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean the stove ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* use detergent [which?] from the intermediate storage room&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clear tables and working areas ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Place items in their normal storage places&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Wash tables and working areas ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Use a damp cloth from the sink area&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replace towels and sponges if needed ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Clean the sponge by boiling (how exactly?) and take a new one from intermediate storage room.&lt;br /&gt;
* If the towel is [TODO: when would a towel be replaced?], then put it in the basket for laundry to wash at 90℃ in the K20 staircase. Then take a new one from [TODO: where?].&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Snack_Kitchen&amp;diff=1879</id>
		<title>Power hour/Snack Kitchen</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Snack_Kitchen&amp;diff=1879"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:28Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Clean the snack kitchen to make sure everyone can use it without getting wet or dirty and has enough space to make their sandwiches.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clear tables ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Move all small items from the tables items to their final resting places, or put them away for cleaning&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* The sink&lt;br /&gt;
* Microwaves&lt;br /&gt;
* Mini oven&lt;br /&gt;
* Toaster: turn upside down to let breadcrumbs fall out&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Dishwasher ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wait until it&#039;s not running and empty it: plastic items generally need more drying. It&#039;s normal to put them on the radiator to dry. Other items should go to their normal resting places in the kitchen. Items which are still dirty should be placed on the dirty dish table.&lt;br /&gt;
* Load compatible items from the dirty dish table into the dishwasher. If you find any wooden items, sharp knives, or too big ones, wash them by hand.&lt;br /&gt;
* When loading the dishwasher, place spoons, knives, and forks on the top shelf in groups.&lt;br /&gt;
* Load detergent from where? when?&lt;br /&gt;
* How to start?&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Replace towels ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* when? where to put? where new ones?&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bathrooms_K20&amp;diff=1878</id>
		<title>Power hour/Bathrooms K20</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bathrooms_K20&amp;diff=1878"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:27Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The cleaning of the [[Main bathroom|Main Bathroom]] and both [[Staircase Toilet|Staircase Toilets]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{:Power hour/Bathrooms}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
== Main bathroom specific tasks ==&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* wash the bathtub&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bathrooms_K22&amp;diff=1877</id>
		<title>Power hour/Bathrooms K22</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bathrooms_K22&amp;diff=1877"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The cleaning of the [[2nd Bathroom]], the [[Baby Bathroom]], and the [[Compost Toilet]]. &lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
{{:Power hour/Bathrooms}}&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Bonus task ===&lt;br /&gt;
* clean the sink in the [[Electronics Workshop]] and exchange the hand towel&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=The_Vortex&amp;diff=1876</id>
		<title>The Vortex</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=The_Vortex&amp;diff=1876"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:26Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;&lt;br /&gt;
Located in the [[Intermediate|Intermediate Storage Room]] in K20-1-5, the vortex is a physical space to regularly look through potentially unwanted communal items.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== What is it for? ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three major use cases for the vortex:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
# &#039;&#039;&#039;Removing&#039;&#039;&#039; stuff from the household.&lt;br /&gt;
# &#039;&#039;&#039;Clearing&#039;&#039;&#039; a corner of the household.&lt;br /&gt;
# &#039;&#039;&#039;Adding&#039;&#039;&#039; stuff to the household.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The 1. Is probably the most relevant case: Someone thinks a certain item should not be part of the Kanthaus household anymore and wants to start the process of getting rid of it. The vortex gives others time to take it back and/or privatize it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
When someone tidies up a cluttered space they usually find stuff that is clearly (or maybe) not trash but still does not belong there. Needing to find a good new or the proper previous location os hard and blocks tidying up efforts, so putting these things in the vortex is an appropriate way to go.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Sometimes people find stuff that might be useful to the house or individuals, but they’re not really sure. Putting it in the vortex means leaving the decision to communalize or privatize the items to others and just giving them prioritized access before it ends up in the [[Freeshop|Free Shop]] or the trash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== How does it work? ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
There are three phases which the stuff - if not taken out - travels through. ‘Vortex shifting’ is a [[Power hour|Power Hour]] task, which means that it ideally happens every week, sometimes more seldom, never more often.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Phase 1 (0+ days) - New things ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Put into this phase =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* broken things which you don’t want to fix&lt;br /&gt;
* things you think we have too much of&lt;br /&gt;
* ‘lost’ personal property&lt;br /&gt;
* anything else you think should move (out) of the communal space in the house&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Label things with the reason why you put them in. If you’d like people to talk to you about them, also write down your name. Pens and paper are on the shelf opposite the vortex, near the door.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Take out of this phase =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* your personal things&lt;br /&gt;
* known communal things, to return them to communal space&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Phase 2 (7+ days) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Put in =====&lt;br /&gt;
* Items from phase 1&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Take out =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Your own personal items.&lt;br /&gt;
* Items you know to be communal.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Phase 3 (7+ days) - Last Chance ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Put in =====&lt;br /&gt;
* Items from phase 2&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
===== Take out =====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Anything you want to privatize&lt;br /&gt;
* Known communal things, to return them to their storage&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Doom ====&lt;br /&gt;
Items from phase 3 are doomed at the next shift.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Items that make sense to communalize are sorted into fitting communal locations. Remember that those items had 2 weeks to be sorted in already. Only return them if you&#039;re sure.&lt;br /&gt;
* good but unneeded items go in the [[Freeshop storage|Free Shop Storage]]&lt;br /&gt;
* trash is put into bins accordingly.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Details of the shifting ====&lt;br /&gt;
Shifting is one of the [[Power hour|Power Hour]] tasks.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
To make it possible for Kanthausians who are not currently in the space to also voice an opinion on the stuff in the vortex, it’s required to document vortex shifts on [[Mattermost]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Experience leads to the following best-practice of vortex shifting:&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Start on the back and empty phase 3.&lt;br /&gt;
* Make (a) box(es) with things for the Free Shop&lt;br /&gt;
* Check things you believe might be there in error with people who might know.&lt;br /&gt;
* If you feel like it, offer items to people outside Kanthaus - on Kleinanzeigen or to your friends.&lt;br /&gt;
* Don’t be shy to use the trash bins!&lt;br /&gt;
* Move phase 2 into phase 3.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take pictures and make sure that the things are identifiable.&lt;br /&gt;
* Feel free to also use the space below the table.&lt;br /&gt;
* If more space is needed than before, you can move the tape that marks the border between phase 2 and phase 3.&lt;br /&gt;
* Check phase 1. If there are items without a label explaining why they were vortexed, move them into their normal storage places. They are probably just lost.&lt;br /&gt;
* Move phase 1 into phase 2.&lt;br /&gt;
* Take pictures if you’re motivated, but the ‘phase 2 to phase 3’ pics are more important.&lt;br /&gt;
* Add stuff that came in during Power Hour to phase 1.&lt;br /&gt;
* Upload the pictures to #kanthaus-stuff on Mattermost and add some descriptive words.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Indoor_Plant_Care&amp;diff=1875</id>
		<title>Power hour/Indoor Plant Care</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Indoor_Plant_Care&amp;diff=1875"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The goal of this task is to have the plants survive for another week. This means giving each plant as much water as it needs to avoid drying out or rotting.&lt;br /&gt;
* take a watering can from the [[Intermediate|Intermediate Storage Room]]&lt;br /&gt;
* walk through all of K20 and K22 looking for plants&lt;br /&gt;
* only water plants which are actually dry: touch the soil, add water (TODO how much?) if the soil feels dry (TODO: how dry?)&lt;br /&gt;
* don&#039;t flood the surroundings! be careful! make sure that if a plant drops or leaks, it doesn&#039;t damage anything valuable! Don&#039;t hurt yourself by unsafe climbing&lt;br /&gt;
* If there&#039;s a puddle of water under the plant, don&#039;t pour any more in but wipe the puddle with a cloth&lt;br /&gt;
* look at pieces of plants in glasses of water. If it looks yucky or (TODO: when?) then drain the old liquid and pour in new water&lt;br /&gt;
* do what you think should be done additionally (TODO what?)&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bin_Emptying&amp;diff=1874</id>
		<title>Power hour/Bin Emptying</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Bin_Emptying&amp;diff=1874"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:24Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Collect trash around the house and take it to the proper bin.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Destinations ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Green bin for organic waste is in the [[garden]], typically near the [[private bike shed]].&lt;br /&gt;
* Blue bins for paper are in the [[trash corner]]&lt;br /&gt;
* Yellow bins for recycleable trash are also in the trash corner&lt;br /&gt;
* Black bins for general waste are also in the trash corner&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Basement K20]] is where glass goes, and also containers with deposit (Pfand)&lt;br /&gt;
Choosing the right bin may be difficult. General guidance can be found in the [[Dining room]] next to the calendar or online: [https://germanyinusa.com/2020/08/26/recycling-in-germany-2/ English], [https://www.kell-gmbh.de/entsorgungswege/ German].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Special trash ====&lt;br /&gt;
* Electronic trash should go under the table in the electronics workshop&lt;br /&gt;
* Other chemicals: place in [WHERE?] and keep it there until until the Schadstoffmobil arrives according to the schedule&lt;br /&gt;
* Batteries (&#039;&#039;&#039;fire risk&#039;&#039;&#039;): place outside in the trash corner, cover with a bucket so that they don&#039;t get wet. Keep it there until [WHEN?]&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Technique ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* IKEA bags are used for collecting glass and paper in the kitchen. Replacements are in the [[washing room]].&lt;br /&gt;
* Large bags are used for recycling. Find replacements in the washing room.&lt;br /&gt;
* Small liner bags are used to line bathroom bins. Possible replacements are in the [[intermediate storage]]. Put a roll in your pocket before collecting the bins.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Sources ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* All toilets: general waste bins &#039;&#039;&#039;that need a small liner bag&#039;&#039;&#039;&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Main bathroom]]: recycling, paper, general waste&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Kitchen|Main kitchen]]: paper, general waste, recycling, organic, Pfand + glass&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Snack kitchen]]: paper, recycling, organic&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Office|Main office]]: paper, recycling&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Silent office]]: paper, general waste&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Washing room]]: paper, general waste, recycling, organic&lt;br /&gt;
* [[Dragon room]]: general waste?&lt;br /&gt;
* Workshops: general waste, paper waste, recycling. Feel free to skip if you can&#039;t identify them&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_Hour/Incoming_Food_Care&amp;diff=1873</id>
		<title>Power Hour/Incoming Food Care</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_Hour/Incoming_Food_Care&amp;diff=1873"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:23Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;Sometimes we get food from the farm, food sharing, or other sources. We need to make sure it doesn&#039;t spoil, and place it in the relevant storage.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Incoming food is normally found in K20-0 entrance hallway.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Dirty food items ===&lt;br /&gt;
Spills happen - soap, yoghurt, flour are common, but sometimes a tomato goes &#039;&#039;splat&#039;&#039; and contaminates other items.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Wash them in the [[Washing room]].&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* unwrap produce from plastic bags. Let them breathe&lt;br /&gt;
* wash fruits and vegetables, &#039;&#039;&#039;except carrots, ginger, garlic,&#039;&#039;&#039; which spoil very fast after washing&lt;br /&gt;
* wash packaged goods if contaminated&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place washed items on the drying rack opposite the bathtub. Don&#039;t squish items on the rack, give them space.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Clean food items ===&lt;br /&gt;
Before putting items on the shelf, they should be clean and dry, and any remaining packaging should be clean and dry.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* long-lasting food that doesn&#039;t need to be cooled (cans, jars) goes to the food storage in [[K20 basement|K20-B]] (make sure packaging is not damaged!)&lt;br /&gt;
* fruits and vegetables go onto the food shelves in [[K20 staircase|K20-1]]&lt;br /&gt;
* small amounts of packaged foods should also go to the food shelves for immediate eating&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Unwashable items ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Carrots and other fast-spoiling things go onto the food shelves in [[K20 staircase|K20-1]] with a label &amp;quot;UNWASHED&amp;quot;&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Existing_food_care&amp;diff=1872</id>
		<title>Power hour/Existing food care</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Existing_food_care&amp;diff=1872"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:22Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;==== Fridge (snack kitchen) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* throw away unattractive food (stayed there long and hasn&#039;t been eaten)&lt;br /&gt;
* throw away spoiled food&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Bread basket (snack kitchen) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* throw away spoiled and hard bread&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Food shelf (staircase next to window, staircase next to intermediate storage) ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* look at &#039;&#039;every food item&#039;&#039;, inspect, if spoiled (mould), then throw out&lt;br /&gt;
* fruit: if beginning to go bad, but still edible (bumped apples, brown bananas, etc), then &#039;&#039;prevent fruit flies&#039;&#039; by deciding:&lt;br /&gt;
** throw out, or&lt;br /&gt;
** put in the kitchen with a note &amp;quot;please eat&amp;quot;, or&lt;br /&gt;
** process (e.g. freeze, make jam, make cake, eat) immediately&lt;br /&gt;
* put &amp;quot;urgent&amp;quot; label on items which will not stay there for long&lt;br /&gt;
* put similar foods in the same box, for example one box full of potatoes, another full of onions, final box with single fruits of different kinds&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Basement ====&lt;br /&gt;
Preferably remove items which we have a lot of. Preferably take items from the freezers - freezers fill up easily but get emptied slower.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* refill the staircase food shelf it it&#039;s empty. It contains food that doesn&#039;t need refregeration. If the thermometer near the shelf shows below 8°C, also put refrigerated food there.&lt;br /&gt;
* refill the snack kitchen fridge if it&#039;s empty.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Clean_Sidewalks&amp;diff=1871</id>
		<title>Power hour/Clean Sidewalks</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Clean_Sidewalks&amp;diff=1871"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:16:21Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;As owners of K20 and K22, we&#039;re obligated by the city to clean the sidewalks along the buildings. As friends of the K18 owner, we&#039;re nice enough to clean the sidewalk along that building too.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is to remove green plants from between the stones, clean the sidewalk from poop, broken glass, and other trash.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Also clean windowsills.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Throw trash in the general waste. Put plants in the organic waste.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Tools ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* An old screw driver to rip out plants: take a dull-looking flat one from [[The Workshop]].&lt;br /&gt;
* a bucket for the glass: from [where?]&lt;br /&gt;
* a broom: from [where?]&lt;br /&gt;
* Plastic bags from [[intermediate storage]] bags box for poop&lt;br /&gt;
* Put on working gloves from the entrance to The Workshop.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Basic_Workshop_Clean-Up&amp;diff=1870</id>
		<title>Power hour/Basic Workshop Clean-Up</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Basic_Workshop_Clean-Up&amp;diff=1870"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:13:39Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;This task covers both the [[Mechanical workshop|mechanical]] and the [[Electronics workshop|electronics]] workshops.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
The goal is to make it easy to find things again, to free some space for working, and to make sure dirt doesn&#039;t get carried on shoes around the house.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Both ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Vacuuming ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Vacuum the floors. The dust may be full of metal pieces, so use the dedicated workshop vacuum cleaners&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Clean surfaces ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove items from working surfaces and put them in their normal storage places&lt;br /&gt;
* Wipe working surfaces. Use a damp cloth if needed&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
=== Electronics ===&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Item sorting ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Sort items from the right side of the tables into their normal storage places&lt;br /&gt;
* Remove one of the trash pieces under the table and put it in the waiting trash outside&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Sink ====&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
* Wash the sink&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
	<entry>
		<id>https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Glass_and_Pfand&amp;diff=1869</id>
		<title>Power hour/Glass and Pfand</title>
		<link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="https://wiki.kanthaus.online/index.php?title=Power_hour/Glass_and_Pfand&amp;diff=1869"/>
		<updated>2025-03-23T06:12:41Z</updated>

		<summary type="html">&lt;p&gt;Dorota: categories&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;hr /&gt;
&lt;div&gt;The big room in K20 basement is overflowing with stuff. Take it out and sell or trash it.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Prepare a bike trailer or a hand cart.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Crates of glass bottles are exactly half the size of the foldable box, so they fit nicely on the trailers.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Place boxes on the vehicle, add loose bags filled with plastic bottles as needed, and secure it all with straps (cupboard near the entrance).&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Be careful not to lose the load when going down the stairs - perhaps you want to load bags outside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Destinations ====&lt;br /&gt;
REWE buys most kinds of bottles. Other shops like LIDL are closer but might refuse half of your load.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
If you go inside a shop, lock your vehicle.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
Some shops don&#039;t like it if you take the cart inside.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Items ====&lt;br /&gt;
First, sell all the sellable stuff by shoving it inside the machine in the shop. Whatever is left, throw into the nearby containers with glass outside the shop, or just throw in the appropriate trash container.&lt;br /&gt;
&lt;br /&gt;
==== Receipts ====&lt;br /&gt;
Cash the receipt at the checkout of the shop. Put the money in the money box in [[Office|The Office]]. KH Members have the key.&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Power hour]]&lt;br /&gt;
[[Category:Maintenance]]&lt;/div&gt;</summary>
		<author><name>Dorota</name></author>
	</entry>
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